Week 1, Thursday: Bangkok

Sarah woke me up this morning with a Skype call. I was initially very confused, partially because it was my first ever call on my new cellphone, second because I didn't know where I was (like some movie), and third when I answered my phone it was Sarah! It was all a little disorientating, as the Brits say.

About the Skype calling, though, all of you can do this too! Whenever you want! With that phone number I gave you! I realized that it doesn't actually cost me any money (although I told Sarah initially that I thought it did) and so you can all call me to your heart's content. This is especially important as I've had trouble calling to the U.S. with my cell phone so far. I've asked a few people at MBK and they either don't know or think it's a problem with my number. I've tried calling the phone service people for my provider, and even the 'press 2 for English' English speakers aren't so hot with the ol' Ingles, so I may have to try a few more times. Or I could just call the Thai ones, but it would probably take them a while to figure out that I'm not Thai and THEY NEED TO SPEAK TO ME VERY SLOWLY AND CLEARLY OVER THE PHONE. Phone conversation is hard in a second language, I think. Or maybe my Thai's just not that good... I'll have to give that another shot, I guess.

I went to Chula (university here) and visited an Anthropology professor, Acarn N., who has been working with the Moken pretty intensively since the early 90's. I was initially really worried about meeting with her, becauase I thought she might be upset that I had worked with the Moken without talking to her first and also because I thought that she might think compensating them with cash like I had done was bad. I was really nervous/awkward for the first part of the meeting, partially because I find it really hard to speak academese in Thai (because it's not that good), and partially because of the reasons just mentioned. So I asked to speak in English, which was ok. After a couple minutes, Acarn N. told me that one of her students was going to come talk to me, because I might be interested in meeting him (or vice versa). While she was out of the room getting him, I took some deep breaths, wrote down some questions, and tried to settle down.

The student came in (actually not a student any more, he had a masters). We talked, all in Thai this time, but a little less academically intensive, about what he had been doing, how long he had spent with the Moken, what he thought of their situation, etc. He told me that he had lived on the island for a while working with the Moken but it was hard and he was only getting paid B5000 a month. That's ~$170 a month. I guess that's not too bad for Thailand (the equivalent in terms of purchasing power I'd say would be about $12-$15,000 a year), but for someone with a Master's degree from the best university in Thailand it probably was a little underwhelming. So he came back and is doing I'm not really sure what but was very nice and we had a nice talk.


Acarn N. came back in then, and I said goodbye to nice student (Net or Nat or Nit or something like that) and then had a really great conversation with the professor. We talked about her research on Gender issues with the Moken (wife abuse, especially), the problems facing the Moken, the different aid groups who are active in Ranong, and so on. She was very kind, gave me a lot of information, and repeatedly told me that if I had any suggestions for her reasearch or the projects to let her know. We discussed the issue of alcohol consumption among the Moken, which is heavy and connected to the wife abuse problem. Part of the problem is that alcohol is used in ceremonies with the Moken (like Christianity), and that they'll go get it themselves even if it's not sold on the island. I think one of the problems is the fact that it's sold on the island and readily available...but still. Education seems like the key here. You'll hear more about this I'm sure. Anyway, Acarn N. is planning to have focus groups with the Moken soon about wife abuse. Isn't that AMAZING?! I think it will be after I'm gone, otherwise I'd love to help facilitate them. I think that's so cool. Anyways. Acarn N. also has a really healthy (I think) and good attitude towards different aid groups, and really has put the wellbeing of the Moken themselves as opposed to an academically defined notion of 'cultural purity' or something like that (this is opposed to a French anthropologist Ivanoff who works with the Moken who I'm sure you'll hear more about later.) She mentioned that she really judges people working with the Moken by their intention, and didn't prejudge them by their ideology. She did mention, though, that she thinks when groups with a religious agenda meet with them, they should provide the aid without strings attached, as they say, and provide a middle way. It's not clear that the church in Ranong has been doing this, but I'll save that for later too.

The whole meeting and getting to know her generally made me feel MUCH better about my research coming up. She said that she thought paying them cash was fine, as long as it was fair, not too much, and agreed on beforehand. She's also the person managing most of the resources from ActionAid, an NGO that has done a lot for the Moken, and it's really nice to know that whole side of the story as I already know the people at the Church. It also feels good to have perspective on the whole situation and know that I'm part of a community of concerned and active people (me much less active then them) who are trying to make a difference. Anyways, at the end, she wanted my suggestions on everything they were doing at the end of the trip, and wants me to write something up on the Moken language for their website! So good meeting. I'm meeting a ling professor tomorrow, also at Chula, who I met last time. Less relevant for my research, but a really nice smart woman and a good connection.

Well, that's about it. I got a massage last night which was amazing but slightly painful on the leg part. She asked me if I had any special requests and I just said 'Nak dai' which means that she can put some force behind it and it was forceful. I'm feeling pretty good today, though, loose and not sore at all, so it was beneficial. On the agenda for today? Umm. 1. Work 2. Moo satay 3. Som Tam 4. Pat Sa Iew 5. Durian (if I'm lucky).